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Let’s Eat Them Together’. Food procurement practices of domination and resistance in the city of Athens.
More specifically, of the various grassroots solidarity initiatives in the city of Athens, this paper focuses on those relating to sourcing food, namely no-middle-men markets and middle-class delis that reshape political foodways. The no-middle men markets operating around the city challenge pre-existing capitalist structures. At the same time, they bring Athenians closer to nature and to the Greek rural, by restoring the broken foodways between the country and the city. At times of crisis Athenians go back to practices of the past and to the comfort of rurality. This way of understanding and dealing with the crisis manifests as well in the middle-upper class Athenians. These Athenians create their own political foodways forming networks of small neighbourhood clusters shops, in a new rising shopping model of sourcing food directly from/closer to nature which resembles the old ways of shopping. These become part of exonerating the rural and reaffirming Athenians’ rural identities. In essence, these shops operate in the same way the no middle-men markets operate, but in a different class sphere. Across class divides, the crisis has affected Athenians in similar ways: they tap into past practices and exonerate and celebrate the rural, by creating a moral economy and reembedding sociability in the markets. By researching all these movements described here this paper illustrates how across class divides, food becomes a trope of resistance in a city in crisis.